The country house of the artist, numismatist, garage winemaker and joker Gennadi Generalenko is concealed inconspicuously in the village of Su-Psekh next to Anapa. The master will ask no money for your visit, but he will not offer any scheduled program either – whatever will be will be.
A historian and excellent interlocutor, Gennadi will recount you the tales of the Kingdom of Bosporus and peculiarities of worshipping Dionysus in contemporary conditions.
The entertainments include such traditional rural activities as to taste the wines, to milk a goat, to talk about the sense of life and to stay for a short while at a shaman’s hut whose minimalism goes with meditation or writing a novel.
Gennadi’s wines are to be drunk while fresh. The grapes are picked by the winemaker himself (and you – if you come in time) from abandoned vineyards – so, naturally, they have never undergone any chemical treatment.
Everything is sincere and honest. Wine exclusiveness. A fount of wisdom and a mine of information.
It’s hard to find Gennadi.
Why to go
A rural Zen Buddhism, a couple of bottles of wine and a dozen of ancient coins for your collection.
Su-Psekh, where lives Gennadi Generalenko, is an outstanding spot. It was predestined for viticulture by Nature, and in 1895 the Golos Kavkaza newspaper wrote about nice wines from Su-Psekh at 10 kopecks a bottle.
Until 1985, in Anapa Rayon (including Su-Psekh) the following wine grapes prevailed: Rhine Riesling, Aligoté and Cabernet Sauvignon; in less volumes – Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Pinot Franc (Pinot Noir), Chardonnay, Pink Traminer, Sémillion, Sylvaner, Muscadelle, Rkatsiteli and Saperavi. The cultivated table varieties were Chasselas, Karaburnu, etc.
Rhine Riesling was the leader. It was used to make vintage dry wines and primary sparkling wines.
Riesling Su-Psekh was very popular in the 1960–1970’s. According to Venedikt Yerofeyev, a popular Soviet writer and a connoisseur of wines and other alcoholic drinks, “with the hot fish dishes must be served Su-Psekh, Abrau Riesling, Gurdzhaani and Almakor…” You see, Riesling Su-Psekh stands first. At it was really light and rounded, that wine, with a well-developed bouquet and well-balanced palate – all due to the local Riesling grapes grown on the local marly and slaty soils rich in microelements, especially iron. It was released after 1.5 to 2 years in oak.
Generalenko’s house stands on the site of old collective farm’s vineyards – the fact is proved by a pair of hammered poles found in his yard. After the harsh winter of 1972, the local vineyard was uprooted (and it was now rare pink Chasselas that was grown there) and cherry tress were planted instead. In Gennadi’s yard grows one of the survining trees, next to the new scion-rooted grapes planted by Master Generalenko who by principle never uses any chemical fertilizers.